Creating a global vision for sustainable fashion

Textiles, the fastest growing sector in household waste, have created an exponential rise in the export of second hand clothes (SHC) to overseas markets such as Kenya and Tanzania. Despite the few advantages for the destination markets (eg, enterprise opportunities), this has exasperated a difficult situation for domestic production. Increased cheap imports from Asia have also led to decline in SHC markets, resulting in increased land filling and the associated environmental impacts. Our research proposes remanufacturing fashion from the unwanted SHC, embellishing using local (destination market) craft/design. From literature review conducted, reuse and remanufacture of clothing causes the least impact on energy use and appears to be the most environmentally and socially friendly approach to sustainability efforts. Remanufacture of clothing is currently practiced at niche market levels, for it to have a broader impact; it needs to gain entry into the mass-market retail arena. In the mass market arena, the apparel value chain is organized around several parts with a marketing network at the retail level. Lead firms predominantly construct these value chains, are predominantly located in developed countries, and may be large retailers and brand-name firms, playing a significant role in specifying what is to be produced, how, and by whom. Our goal is to understand how designers, manufacturers and retailers may work together in a remanufacturing process. We present findings from interviews with Tanzanian second hand clothes retailers and artisans, UK fashion remanufacturers and retailers. We discuss the implications on the fashion design process and propose a new product development method for sustainable consumption of fashion. We conclude by reflecting on potential mechanisms of the supply chain integration and how the large multinationals may become engaged. Key words: remanufacturing, design process, supply chain, second hand clothe

Improving Sustainability and Encouraging Innovation in Traditional Craft Sectors:the Case of Sri Lankan Handloom Industry

Purpose – The purpose of this study is to assess sustainability across the handloom industry in Sri Lanka and identify opportunities for sustainable innovations supporting new markets, development of SMEs and growth in the Sri Lankan craft sector Design/Methodology/Approach – Using a multiple case studies methodology 10 case studies and 37 semi-structured interviews were analysed in conjunction with the triple-layered business model canvas. Findings- The study reveals the handloom industry to be fundamentally sustainable but with structural barriers hindering innovation and growth. The environmentally conscious production process and social inclusion within weaving communities are the key driving forces of sustainability in the sector but the structure of the industry and lack of access to markets and information act as barriers to innovation and growth. The incorporation of design interventions, closed-loop manufacturing strategies and the encouragement of community-based entrepreneurship would support sustainability orientated business innovation in the handloom industry. Originality/Value - The rapidly increasing market share for high-quality, hand-made goods indicates the potential of the creative industries to accelerate socio-economic growth. Handloom textiles is attracting growing interest in fashion markets, due to increasing concern about exploitation in production encouraging interest in the economic benefits of fairly traded, high quality materials, but also the potential contribution of handloom to sustainability in the fashion industry. The findings of this study will support the handloom industry and policy makers in developing support for sustainable innovation in the handloom industry

Sustainability dichotomies of used clothes supply chains: a critical review of key concerns and strategic resources

Purpose – Used clothes supply chains are becoming increasingly complex, fragmented and less transparentdue to rising volumes of discarded clothes and its dispersed reverse logistics operations across the Global North(GN) and Global South (GS). While it has a promising impact on circular economy and international tradegrowth, increasing exports of used clothes and overflowing landfills raise some negative concerns on its overallsustainability. This paper addresses the dichotomy that exists in terms of interpreting the sustainabilitycredentials of used clothes supply chains. Design/methodology/approach – A systematic literature review was carried out and 55 articles wereexamined to identify the triple bottom line (TBL) sustainability impacts of used clothes supply chains. TBLsustainability issues were identified, reflected through the lens of natural resource-based view and interpretedin the form of propositions. Findings – The paper pinpoints sevenTBLsustainability concerns and prescribes three sets of strategic resourcesrequired in glocal used clothes supply chains for mitigating these.These are (1) slowing the supply chain by tacklingpoor quality, overproduction and oversupply issues, (2) improving logistics/supply chain infrastructure andecosystem collaboration and (2) embedding transparent environmental, social and governance (ESG) measurestaken by both value chain actors and regulatory bodies, for embracing system-level sustainable development. Originality/value – This is one of the first studies to analyse TBL sustainability of glocal north–south usedclothes supply chains. The study is unique in terms of its scope and contribution to the sustainable supplychain literature.CLOSe

Sustainability Impacts of Global Used Clothing Trade and Its Supply Chain

Global trade of used clothing, which comprises a series of activities that connect the Global North to the Global South, has grown substantially over the years. This paper analyses the trade data of the export/import trade of used clothing to provide an overview of global trade statistics and explores the sustainability impact of the used clothing trade. Both qualitative and quantitative secondary data were employed in the study. Analysis of export data revealed a declining trend, which may be attributed to the import bans of used clothing and new cheap imports from Asia. While the United States is constantly being the top exporter, and Pakistan is the top importer, the value of exports grew the fastest in China during the last decade. Analysis of sustainability impacts revealed both positive and negative facts. Used clothing markets support thousands of livelihoods and provide affordable clothing for those who live in poverty; however, the fast fashion phenomenon is threatening this important trade. Therefore, this study urges an investigation of alternative business models to reutilize clothing waste. Remanufacturing and recycling-based business models, when implemented in the Global South, could provide viable solutions to reutilize excess clothing while enhancing the sustainability benefits. Developing collaborative relationships among the stakeholders of the used clothing supply chain is immensely necessary to implement such disruptive business models and to capture values along the supply chain

Circular used clothing valorization: Executive Brief

This Executive Brief compiles the key results obtained from some ongoing research and innovation studies conducted with the scope of two ongoing projects: (i) CLOSeD (Circular clothing dichotomies in global-local supply chain dispersion) funded by Ikea Family Research Foundation; ongoing since January 2021, and (ii) Circular Logistics (Exploring the role of logistics in the circular textile ecosystem) funded by Formas (Swedish research council for sustainable development); ongoing since May 2022.  [More about the 2 projects here: CLOSeD↗  Circular Logistics↗] This Executive Brief is one-of-its-kind, given that it synthesizes the results of multiple ongoing studies, and draws connection among them by presenting an overarching purpose of creating science-based logical reasoning and understanding of how circular clothing supply chains and ecosystems, and the organizations embedded within, can maximise their valorisation potential amid the changing landscape led by, for example, the European Union (EU)-wide planning and adoption of “EU Strategy for textiles”.  A common thread of our argument, as put forward in this Executive Brief is while the textile circular economy is largely influenced in practice by recent technological advancements, related to circular material development, innovative products and processes, or digitalization of circular business models and operations, the motivation in driving them forward has been largely from an efficiency-gain perspective, both in terms of economics and ecology, that is address whether and how circular economy would minimise costs, enhance profitability, and render economies of scale. A novelty-centred perspective has been largely implicit in this regard; however critical to generate a top-line on how circular supply chains and ecosystems should generate sustainable value, beyond cost/profit dimensions. To address this our Executive Brief presents the 5 distinct studies’ results. Each study is enriched by empirically-driven dataset, analytical framing and scientific methodology, while at the same time are aligned by a common objective: to explore and provide explanation of the main challenges to value generation in circular clothing supply chains and ecosystems, and what concrete strategic solutions are/can be devised.   Ø  STUDY 1 explores the values currently uncaptured, new opportunities and strategies to capture them, from a multi-dimensional and multi-stakeholder perspective, in context to European used clothing circular supply chain from multiple countries. Ø  STUDY 2 checks the triple-bottom line sustainability credential of distributed Global North-South used clothing circular supply chain, by weighing the pros and cons against each other and finally proposing what needs further attention for future valorization. Ø  STUDY 3 highlights the underlying supply chain capabilities prerequisite to design textile-to-textile recycling value chain for handling post-consumer waste in Global North. Ø  STUDY 4 presents the case of a multi-national Swedish fashion retailer to pen down what capabilities are essential of an ecosystem leader or captain in orchestrating circular supply chains of post-consumer used clothes. Ø  STUDY 5 initiates a mapping of multi-tiered textile recycling value chain in Global South by presenting the case of Panipat in India - world’s largest mechanical recycling hub

Circular used clothing valorization: Executive Brief

This Executive Brief compiles the key results obtained from some ongoing research and innovation studies conducted with the scope of two ongoing projects: (i) CLOSeD (Circular clothing dichotomies in global-local supply chain dispersion) funded by Ikea Family Research Foundation; ongoing since January 2021, and (ii) Circular Logistics (Exploring the role of logistics in the circular textile ecosystem) funded by Formas (Swedish research council for sustainable development); ongoing since May 2022.  [More about the 2 projects here: CLOSeD↗  Circular Logistics↗] This Executive Brief is one-of-its-kind, given that it synthesizes the results of multiple ongoing studies, and draws connection among them by presenting an overarching purpose of creating science-based logical reasoning and understanding of how circular clothing supply chains and ecosystems, and the organizations embedded within, can maximise their valorisation potential amid the changing landscape led by, for example, the European Union (EU)-wide planning and adoption of “EU Strategy for textiles”.  A common thread of our argument, as put forward in this Executive Brief is while the textile circular economy is largely influenced in practice by recent technological advancements, related to circular material development, innovative products and processes, or digitalization of circular business models and operations, the motivation in driving them forward has been largely from an efficiency-gain perspective, both in terms of economics and ecology, that is address whether and how circular economy would minimise costs, enhance profitability, and render economies of scale. A novelty-centred perspective has been largely implicit in this regard; however critical to generate a top-line on how circular supply chains and ecosystems should generate sustainable value, beyond cost/profit dimensions. To address this our Executive Brief presents the 5 distinct studies’ results. Each study is enriched by empirically-driven dataset, analytical framing and scientific methodology, while at the same time are aligned by a common objective: to explore and provide explanation of the main challenges to value generation in circular clothing supply chains and ecosystems, and what concrete strategic solutions are/can be devised.   Ø  STUDY 1 explores the values currently uncaptured, new opportunities and strategies to capture them, from a multi-dimensional and multi-stakeholder perspective, in context to European used clothing circular supply chain from multiple countries. Ø  STUDY 2 checks the triple-bottom line sustainability credential of distributed Global North-South used clothing circular supply chain, by weighing the pros and cons against each other and finally proposing what needs further attention for future valorization. Ø  STUDY 3 highlights the underlying supply chain capabilities prerequisite to design textile-to-textile recycling value chain for handling post-consumer waste in Global North. Ø  STUDY 4 presents the case of a multi-national Swedish fashion retailer to pen down what capabilities are essential of an ecosystem leader or captain in orchestrating circular supply chains of post-consumer used clothes. Ø  STUDY 5 initiates a mapping of multi-tiered textile recycling value chain in Global South by presenting the case of Panipat in India - world’s largest mechanical recycling hub

Circular used clothing valorization: Executive Brief

This Executive Brief compiles the key results obtained from some ongoing research and innovation studies conducted with the scope of two ongoing projects: (i) CLOSeD (Circular clothing dichotomies in global-local supply chain dispersion) funded by Ikea Family Research Foundation; ongoing since January 2021, and (ii) Circular Logistics (Exploring the role of logistics in the circular textile ecosystem) funded by Formas (Swedish research council for sustainable development); ongoing since May 2022.  [More about the 2 projects here: CLOSeD↗  Circular Logistics↗] This Executive Brief is one-of-its-kind, given that it synthesizes the results of multiple ongoing studies, and draws connection among them by presenting an overarching purpose of creating science-based logical reasoning and understanding of how circular clothing supply chains and ecosystems, and the organizations embedded within, can maximise their valorisation potential amid the changing landscape led by, for example, the European Union (EU)-wide planning and adoption of “EU Strategy for textiles”.  A common thread of our argument, as put forward in this Executive Brief is while the textile circular economy is largely influenced in practice by recent technological advancements, related to circular material development, innovative products and processes, or digitalization of circular business models and operations, the motivation in driving them forward has been largely from an efficiency-gain perspective, both in terms of economics and ecology, that is address whether and how circular economy would minimise costs, enhance profitability, and render economies of scale. A novelty-centred perspective has been largely implicit in this regard; however critical to generate a top-line on how circular supply chains and ecosystems should generate sustainable value, beyond cost/profit dimensions. To address this our Executive Brief presents the 5 distinct studies’ results. Each study is enriched by empirically-driven dataset, analytical framing and scientific methodology, while at the same time are aligned by a common objective: to explore and provide explanation of the main challenges to value generation in circular clothing supply chains and ecosystems, and what concrete strategic solutions are/can be devised.   Ø  STUDY 1 explores the values currently uncaptured, new opportunities and strategies to capture them, from a multi-dimensional and multi-stakeholder perspective, in context to European used clothing circular supply chain from multiple countries. Ø  STUDY 2 checks the triple-bottom line sustainability credential of distributed Global North-South used clothing circular supply chain, by weighing the pros and cons against each other and finally proposing what needs further attention for future valorization. Ø  STUDY 3 highlights the underlying supply chain capabilities prerequisite to design textile-to-textile recycling value chain for handling post-consumer waste in Global North. Ø  STUDY 4 presents the case of a multi-national Swedish fashion retailer to pen down what capabilities are essential of an ecosystem leader or captain in orchestrating circular supply chains of post-consumer used clothes. Ø  STUDY 5 initiates a mapping of multi-tiered textile recycling value chain in Global South by presenting the case of Panipat in India - world’s largest mechanical recycling hub

Circular used clothing valorization: Executive Brief

This Executive Brief compiles the key results obtained from some ongoing research and innovation studies conducted with the scope of two ongoing projects: (i) CLOSeD (Circular clothing dichotomies in global-local supply chain dispersion) funded by Ikea Family Research Foundation; ongoing since January 2021, and (ii) Circular Logistics (Exploring the role of logistics in the circular textile ecosystem) funded by Formas (Swedish research council for sustainable development); ongoing since May 2022.  [More about the 2 projects here: CLOSeD↗  Circular Logistics↗] This Executive Brief is one-of-its-kind, given that it synthesizes the results of multiple ongoing studies, and draws connection among them by presenting an overarching purpose of creating science-based logical reasoning and understanding of how circular clothing supply chains and ecosystems, and the organizations embedded within, can maximise their valorisation potential amid the changing landscape led by, for example, the European Union (EU)-wide planning and adoption of “EU Strategy for textiles”.  A common thread of our argument, as put forward in this Executive Brief is while the textile circular economy is largely influenced in practice by recent technological advancements, related to circular material development, innovative products and processes, or digitalization of circular business models and operations, the motivation in driving them forward has been largely from an efficiency-gain perspective, both in terms of economics and ecology, that is address whether and how circular economy would minimise costs, enhance profitability, and render economies of scale. A novelty-centred perspective has been largely implicit in this regard; however critical to generate a top-line on how circular supply chains and ecosystems should generate sustainable value, beyond cost/profit dimensions. To address this our Executive Brief presents the 5 distinct studies’ results. Each study is enriched by empirically-driven dataset, analytical framing and scientific methodology, while at the same time are aligned by a common objective: to explore and provide explanation of the main challenges to value generation in circular clothing supply chains and ecosystems, and what concrete strategic solutions are/can be devised.   Ø  STUDY 1 explores the values currently uncaptured, new opportunities and strategies to capture them, from a multi-dimensional and multi-stakeholder perspective, in context to European used clothing circular supply chain from multiple countries. Ø  STUDY 2 checks the triple-bottom line sustainability credential of distributed Global North-South used clothing circular supply chain, by weighing the pros and cons against each other and finally proposing what needs further attention for future valorization. Ø  STUDY 3 highlights the underlying supply chain capabilities prerequisite to design textile-to-textile recycling value chain for handling post-consumer waste in Global North. Ø  STUDY 4 presents the case of a multi-national Swedish fashion retailer to pen down what capabilities are essential of an ecosystem leader or captain in orchestrating circular supply chains of post-consumer used clothes. Ø  STUDY 5 initiates a mapping of multi-tiered textile recycling value chain in Global South by presenting the case of Panipat in India - world’s largest mechanical recycling hub

Fungal diversity notes 253-366: taxonomic and phylogenetic contributions to fungal taxa

Notes on 113 fungal taxa are compiled in this paper, including 11 new genera, 89 new species, one new subspecies, three new combinations and seven reference specimens. A wide geographic and taxonomic range of fungal taxa are detailed. In the Ascomycota the new genera Angustospora (Testudinaceae), Camporesia (Xylariaceae), Clematidis, Crassiparies (Pleosporales genera incertae sedis), Farasanispora, Longiostiolum (Pleosporales genera incertae sedis), Multilocularia (Parabambusicolaceae), Neophaeocryptopus (Dothideaceae), Parameliola (Pleosporales genera incertae sedis), and Towyspora (Lentitheciaceae) are introduced. Newly introduced species are Angustospora nilensis, Aniptodera aquibella, Annulohypoxylon albidiscum, Astrocystis thailandica, Camporesia sambuci, Clematidis italica, Colletotrichum menispermi, C. quinquefoliae, Comoclathris pimpinellae, Crassiparies quadrisporus, Cytospora salicicola, Diatrype thailandica, Dothiorella rhamni, Durotheca macrostroma, Farasanispora avicenniae, Halorosellinia rhizophorae, Humicola koreana, Hypoxylon lilloi, Kirschsteiniothelia tectonae, Lindgomyces okinawaensis, Longiostiolum tectonae, Lophiostoma pseudoarmatisporum, Moelleriella phukhiaoensis, M. pongdueatensis, Mucoharknessia anthoxanthi, Multilocularia bambusae, Multiseptospora thysanolaenae, Neophaeocryptopus cytisi, Ocellularia arachchigei, O. ratnapurensis, Ochronectria thailandica, Ophiocordyceps karstii, Parameliola acaciae, P. dimocarpi, Parastagonospora cumpignensis, Pseudodidymosphaeria phlei, Polyplosphaeria thailandica, Pseudolachnella brevifusiformis, Psiloglonium macrosporum, Rhabdodiscus albodenticulatus, Rosellinia chiangmaiensis, Saccothecium rubi, Seimatosporium pseudocornii, S. pseudorosae, Sigarispora ononidis and Towyspora aestuari. New combinations are provided for Eutiarosporella dactylidis (sexual morph described and illustrated) and Pseudocamarosporium pini. Descriptions, illustrations and/or reference specimens are designated for Aposphaeria corallinolutea, Cryptovalsa ampelina, Dothiorella vidmadera, Ophiocordyceps formosana, Petrakia echinata, Phragmoporthe conformis and Pseudocamarosporium pini. The new species of Basidiomycota are Agaricus coccyginus, A. luteofibrillosus, Amanita atrobrunnea, A. digitosa, A. gleocystidiosa, A. pyriformis, A. strobilipes, Bondarzewia tibetica, Cortinarius albosericeus, C. badioflavidus, C. dentigratus, C. duboisensis, C. fragrantissimus, C. roseobasilis, C. vinaceobrunneus, C. vinaceogrisescens, C. wahkiacus, Cyanoboletus hymenoglutinosus, Fomitiporia atlantica, F. subtilissima, Ganoderma wuzhishanensis, Inonotus shoreicola, Lactifluus armeniacus, L. ramipilosus, Leccinum indoaurantiacum, Musumecia alpina, M. sardoa, Russula amethystina subp. tengii and R. wangii are introduced. Descriptions, illustrations, notes and / or reference specimens are designated for Clarkeinda trachodes, Dentocorticium ussuricum, Galzinia longibasidia, Lentinus stuppeus and Leptocorticium tenellum. The other new genera, species new combinations are Anaeromyces robustus, Neocallimastix californiae and Piromyces finnis from Neocallimastigomycota, Phytophthora estuarina, P. rhizophorae, Salispina, S. intermedia, S. lobata and S. spinosa from Oomycota, and Absidia stercoraria, Gongronella orasabula, Mortierella calciphila, Mucor caatinguensis, M. koreanus, M. merdicola and Rhizopus koreanus in Zygomycota